1. How safe is it to trade online?
2. What happens if cards/payments are lost in the mail?
3. What can I do if a trade goes horribly wrong?
1. Do you buy/sell/trade internationally?
2. Do you accept Paypal/Bidpay/Billpoint/etc.?
3. What are your trading guidelines?
1. Are your cards fakes?
2. How can I tell if my cards are fake?
3. What condition are your cards in?
4. Do you have multiples of one card?
5. How do you know so much about cards? (Or, why should I trust your information?)
1. Do you have the Rulebook? I want to play, but don't know how.
2. Who thought up this crazy game?
3. What are the starter deck breakdowns?
4. I need more help with the gameplay. Help?
5. I've got a question about a specific card...
6. I've got a question about how a card combination works...
7. How do I set up a tournament?
I've never been scammed in almost 9 years of selling, buying,and trading, and I can count the number of unpleasant transactions on one hand. The best thing to do if you're unsure of a trader is to check references (both on auction sites and with other traders) or do the transaction in several parts to minimize the potential loss.
Depending on you payment method and any insurance, you may have recourse. But many time it depends on how nice your seller is. I try to work something out, but really callous dealers may just tell you it's tough luck.
Money orders and checks - if seriously delayed in the mail - can have stop payments ordered so that shady postal worker can't cash it. Most money orders can also be refunded within a certain time. Cash is up to the seller, frankly. For a large order, don't count on your seller kindly sending your cards out for you on faith that you paid - most will ask for a second payment.
If the cards arrive but aren't as described/like the scans, you can ask to call off the trade and return them. If all else fails, you may be able to make a case for mail fraud (thankfully I've never had to do this.)
Sure! I'm located in the USA, and I frequently make sales and trades with Canada. I've also done a few transactions to England and Australia.
I do have Paypal now. I can't accept credit card payments, though; I am not a business and only have a personal account. Also, I will add delivery confirmation to orders made with Paypal at no additional cost.
See Trading Guidelines for some answers. If something still isn't clear, just ask.
The only things you may call a "fake" are the Hong Kong (marked with an HK) reprints of Graffiti and Carddass cards. These aren't, strictly speaking, fake, but many collectors will be highly upset if you sell them HK cards and not cards marked "Made in Japan" on the backs. Compare the front and back of Graffiti #259 and the front and back of Carddass #370 for the differences between HK and Japanese releases.
I have a few poster prisms and some real fakes lingering, but on the whole, my stock has been pulled straight from the box and pack by me.
Fakes are generally a lower print and color quality, with mismatched backs. One of the most common sets I see as fakes is the wedding set. Compare the front of these wedding cards. The fake lacks the die cut corners and pop out hearts of this set, and is a prismatic sticker with some additional text slapped on the front for good measure.
The foils for Japanese cards generally have a small, boxy prism pattern, not swirls or stars or circles or lines (though some of the more recent series have broken this tradition.) When I came into this hobby online five years ago, there was much angst over hard versus soft prisms - hard prisms being those foils that are not stickers, and the soft prisms being the stickers. Don't be surprised, then, if you find a legitimate looking Japanese foil to be a sticker - it's authentic.
There are some high quality fakes from Taiwan, the "poster prism" series, which is almost too nice to be lumped with the fakes. There is also a similar set that uses images from the manga. Both are not licensed series, however pretty they are, but they go for a decent price and many people collect them.
There are also a few oddball fakes I've come across over the years. One is plastic and see through, like a peeled Carddass W, but the plastic is textured. The other is glow in the dark (I bought it just because it's the only such card I'd ever seen before.)
All my cards are mint/near mint unless otherwise noted.
Sometimes. I'm able to keep the more recent North American Cards in stock, for the most part.
I've been collecting Sailor Moon cards since 1997, when the local Toys R Us got a card vending machine. Anything I do, I do obsessively; cards are no exception. I'm not an expert on the Japanese series, but I've seen, opened, smelled, angsted, hunted, and cursed packs of North American Sailor Moon cards for over ten years. I've read product reviews, other sites, tracked down boxes, and even edited the Sailor Moon Merchandise cat at dmoz because the cards fascinated me. If I don't know it, it's not worth knowing. (Hah!)
I rescued the official PDF rulebook from the Premiere Edition. You may view and/or download it here. Note that this does not have information on the function of Location cards, which are only found in the Past and Future expansion.The CCG Workshop had a text version of the P&F rulebook, as transcribed by Tuxedo Rainbow. This site has subsequently died, but fear not, I salvaged THIS too. ;)
Dart Flipcards produced the cards. Gameplay was designed by Guardians of Order.
They really explain it better than I can.
These are some general scenarios from the game.
Section Four of the CCG FAQ has tricky Monster, Villain, Person, Item, Event, and Scout/Knight card effects explained.
Section Five of the CCG FAQ goes through some tricky card combo scenarios.
You crazy person you... Section Six goes through some really bare bones tournament ideas. Basically they want ALL foil cards proxied, minimum deck size is 60, and a max of four each of the non-power cards. I do not know how this applies to the mixed power cards released in the P&F set. Sailor Pluto is officially limited to one per deck, but I am unsure if any other cards were later restricted as well.
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